wouldn't you have to go to a science shop to get the crystaline? if it's the kind with formalin you can get sick just breathing it at room temperature, so breathing in any steam/evaporation is a big harmful no-no i heat mine with a bunson burner on the balcony til almost all of the formalin is gone :edit: BIZ!, help me out and let me test your knowledge, marsh's white ink (and all other white ink) is pigment based right? so i couldn't use it as a base and add blue leather dye, methylene blue, malachite green, etc. etc. etc. to make a really vivid blue ink? CAN YOU ADD DYES AND STAINER ADDITIVES TO A PIGMENT BASED INK? if not, do you think i could use the fiebing's oil based dye? altho it's called "dye" still it's oil and mineral spirit based, which makes me assume it's pigment. really seems like you could mix it with a pigment based ink
You can get crystaline/powderform in many places. ive heated it before so the formalin is vapourised. Yes. you can mix them with the white ink, to form that. but i would add leather dye, as the alcohol content would be too low for it to fully mix.. you can add chemical stainers to it, but it wouldn't stain attal like they would in a regular base mix.. Dyes can be oil based.. it will work, but still not as well.. theres lots of things you can do.
i have a plastic bottle full of xylene. nothin else. and guess what nothin hapened. sat thier for 4 months and its perfectly fine
i have been testing working on a mix like this but instead i have been making a white spirit based pigmented ink from scratch and adding my own ink mixes to dye the pigments, it has worked pretty well but proportions are very hard to get correct if they are not it can get odd colours with the ink bleeding through the pigment but if done perfectly you can get a pigmented layer above with a dye stain underneath
i added malichite green to my ink recipe thats basicly pen ink w some ded red i thro in ther and sme white ded w a lil more pen ink thrown on top...then lastly iadded the malichite green w the formalin in it and it made some nasty fumes...i couldnt breath hardly..
i posted up some acrylic and water about 3 months back, when the winter was reallyyyyyyy harsh here in montreal, and my acrylic is still up, no cracks, not one bit faded, while my gk got cracked like a bitch cause of the winter.
I'm not ghetto enough to steal anymore. I'm in my twenties with previous convictions, and going to jail for the sake of stealing a fucking mop isn't worth it. I'm sure you'd enjoy it in a cell with some black fucker though, keep stealing, you hardcore writer you. Also, what's wrong with shopping in a graff store? That's like saying anyone who buys Belton or Montana paint isn't a real writer, because real writers steal $1 paint from Walmart and get up, they don't fuck with stuff made for writers in graff outlets. Idiot.
Question: How many people actually witness the buff trying to REMOVE their marks? Does the buff actually try this or do they just go straight to covering with new paint? The reason I ask is because it's fairly easy to make an ink that withstands standard cleansers, but is removed with more hardcore substances. The problem is, though, that the hardcore substances also usually remove the base paint or can damage the surface the mark is on. Therefore, the buff usually will just paint over the mark instead of try to remove it. Moral of the story: Most of the time Ink doesn't need to withstand a hardcore chemical buff, just survive cleansers, and the sun.
I've noticed them using like handheld machines like a mini one of these : http://www.parish-supply.com/images/Cimex-R76-01.jpg Got rid of tags fairly easily and even faded spraypaint on brick quite a bit. Saying that, it was in a place that's seen alot of shitty tags from kiddies n stuff lately, bit of an eyesore, so I'm pretty sure they were called in especially to get rid of that graff, rather than being out everyday buffing shit.
ROFTLOLMAO WTF @ "i'm not ghetto enough to steal" 1.you dont have to steal the mop you douchebag, you can buy them for $2 at most (kiwis, bingo daubers, window markers). if you're in your 20s you should just stop now cuz there are 13 year olds on youtube who know more about this shit than you do 2. wtf... in the cell with a black guy ? do you hate black people or are you just afraid of them???? just so your ignorant ass knows...wal-mart won't press charges for anything less than $25...so even if their weak ass security gaurds stop you all you gotta do is just keep on walking... 3. that's NOTHING like clowning on people who buy belton or montanna. those are superior brands of paint that are worth the money. what you bought is a a product that was equal or lesser to the shit you could get at wal-mart. it fucking MELTED and you were left whining like a bitch. DID YOU GET YOUR MONEYS WORTH? NO! 100% FAIL IS ALL YOU GOT! how much did you pay for that SUPER COOL NYC MOP? however much you paid went right down the drain. you can't call me an idiot or try to school me man. i know wtf i'm talking about and i didnt waste my money like a herb ass toy you know what? since you're such a pathetic retarded i'm going to tell you how to fix your lame ass piece of shit mop...GET A 10CENT PIECE OF FELT FROM THE ARTS AND CRAFT SECTION OF WALMART CUT IT TO A SMALLER SIZE AND FOLD IT INTO THE APPROPRIATE SIZE AND SHAPE AND SHOVE THAT SHIT IN THERE...ABBRA CADABBRA! NEW NIB! THE RESULT WILL BE JUST LIKE THIS you're welcome yeah, i got the privilege of watching an employee of a place i hit buff some shit i did with a plain old pilot. he just used a rag with basic solvent. his job was done after about 5 or 10 minutes. if it was my own paint recipe he wouldn't have been able to get it off, so they would've called in the city buff crew and it just would've been painted over. so if you don't want to get buffed, the only real way to avoid it is (like you said) get a mix that withstand the common solvents and use it on things that don't get painted over (various street signs are my fav.)